My Adventures – Knightshoots Landscape Photography

Gourock, Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park, and Cloch Lighthouse

South West Scotland 2021: Part Thirteen

16 September 2021

I woke up early after what ended up as a poor night of sleep. There was no particular reason for it but it meant I was easily awake for a possible dawn shot. Sadly, although I got out to photograph it, the sky remained cloudy and nothing exciting happened to take a photograph OF. Instead, I decided to attempt a little more sleep and tried to get another hour. That didn’t work either, so feeling a little grotty and grumpy, I just had breakfast and took my time this morning. As the early hours progressed, the sky cleared a fair bit, and the view over Gourock looked really pretty, with broken sun patches drifting across the scene. Watching this from the van window, I decided to take another shot before I left, while it looked this nice. I jumped out and as I stood taking my photos I couldn’t miss the number of other people also here with cameras out. (OK, this sight is pretty, but I didnt think it was that pretty!) It turned out that while a couple were here just for the view – they simply snapped with their phones and left really quickly, quite a few were here just watching and waiting. One guy had a scope type camera… was it a rare bird they were watching out for? A short while passed and I finally saw what these guys were waiting for – a large cruise ship came into view and gently sailed down the firth. All of a sudden they bustled into life and started snapping like mad. It seems that much like train spotters, there are also ship spotters. (who knew?!) As I spoke to one man, he explained that this particular one was not often here, and quite anticipated. This was quite clear by the number of people that gathered to watch. Once the ship had gone, all the photographers vanished along with it, and I had the location all to myself.

Once I had taken my shot, I had a think on what else I could do here in Inverclyde. Yesterday had taken it out of me a little, and the poor night didn’t help, so I thought I would take things fairly easy today, and maybe just have a little explore of the Clyde Muirshiel park area. Yesterday, I had spotted a possible abandoned house near my ancestors one, so on a whim, I decided to start there and have a little explore. The pressure was off finishing Inverclyde, as I had effectively visited 3 different locations yesterday, and already had two in the bag from a few days earlier (Cloch Lighthouse and the James Watt marina), so this was a bonus trip. I got to the spot fairly quickly, and went for an initial look before I decided to come back for my camera. The weather was holding up for me perfectly for a little project idea that I’d had in mind since the highlands. When I was there, I had spotted a number of abandoned buildings. These were always interesting to visit, especially those that still had a variety of belongings scattered everywhere, despite being abandoned for quite some years.

My idea was to try getting a photo from one of the windows… basically ‘a room with a view’, but from a now unloved, ex home. I’d already picked up an old bottle from jaw reservoir, so I thought I might put it to a bit of use and collected that up from the van with my camera. On the walk back to the house (see header) I picked a few wild flowers from the area that were in bloom today -garlic, buttercup, hebe, dandilion(?) and mint, along with a few early autumn leaves, and a handful of wild mushrooms. Once inside, the idea was to arrange these in or with the old bottle and take a shot from my chosen window. It worked out OK, except that I forgot to take multiple shots to focus stack correctly. (GAGH!! * Slaps forehead in frustration) Ahh, lesson learned. For a first try though, I wasn’t too disappointed, and totally in awe of the stunning view from this one. I wonder if the previous owners and workers from this small holding ever really appreciated it as much as I did today. After taking my photos, I had a little explore. It was a single story house with what appeared to be two animal barns/holding areas to either side. I don’t know much about farming, so I couldn’t be exactly sure what use they might have been put to. What I could tell was that there was a LOT of animal poop in one of them though, so it was clearly still somewhat in use!

After this gentle and slow explore, I thought I might head back to Cloch Lighthouse. I was disappointed with the water levels on my last visit, so rather than aim for sunset, I decided to get there for high tide. The water lapping in might make a nice shot I mused. High tide wasn’t for a while however, so instead I thought I would take a very slow drive over and through the park area and just enjoy the views. It was a beautiful drive, sun shining intermittently as the cloud slowly started building. This, I felt, might be perfect for my lighthouse shot later, so I was content to take my time, stopping at a number of spots to have a gentle walk or explore. Part of my drive took me through North Ayrshire, and although I was, in my head still ‘doing’ Inverclyde, I couldn’t resist taking the odd photo from up here.

I slowly carried on to Cloch Lighthouse and on arriving just after half past 3, I could see that the conditions were going to be perfect. The cloud had chased the blue away, and the shot was going to look a fair bit moodier than last time. I found the only parking spot I knew of quickly, and didn’t faff about this time trying to find anything better. Once on the stoney beach, I saw the tide was much higher than last time, and that it was still ebbing in, so I had plenty of time to experiment with a few varying spots along the short beach here. This session felt much calmer this time, and I enjoyed myself much more. Without any added stress, I found myself taking a number of shots that worked for me as I hoped, and I was done well within time.

Cloch Lighthouse. Moodier this time, and a much less stressed photo session

Once the tide turned and started to make its way back out, I decided to simply drive up to Greenock, fill up with fuel, and do a quick shop, before heading down to an overnight spot in North Ayrshire. I would then be ready for my next county to start in the morning. There were three other vans here tonight, and although by the road, it was quiet enough for me to sleep pretty well.

Port Glasgow, Greenock Cut, Back O’ The World, and…

South West Scotland 2021: Part Twelve

15 September 2021

So, today would end up an unexpectedly successful and emotional day, but lets start at the beginning.

A reflection shot of Dumbarton castle this morning proved to be an impossible task – with the view here being non existent due to thick fog. Thinking I could return at any time, I just decided to restart my Inverclyde leg of this trip. I could, after all, return to this spot any time.

My first location today was going to be Port Glasgow, and suddenly I found myself very keen to get a foggy minimalistic picture of the lighthouse here. Without a doubt it was one of the easiest shots to get, and I was there and photographing the sight happily, very quickly. The view was perfect, no background clutter to distract, and the lighthouse close enough to be clear in the frame. As I was playing with focal lengths and slight position changes there was even a guillemot happily diving in and around the waters. Ultimately he gave me one of my favourite shots of this trip so far.

Port Glasgow lighthouse, the fog gave me an awesome minimal landscape

Right here as well was Newark castle, so I walked over to that to explore. It was a really lovely looking building, pretty intact for a castle, and, judging by the signs here, one that you can go inside and visit (closed at this early hour of course!) Sadly the building was surrounded with metal barriers and just beyond the grounds the skyline was marred by cranes and building works from the shipyard behind. Finding any position to get a nice shot was impossible at the moment. In hindsight there are a few spots I could have tried, but I didn’t see them today. To the right however, there was a pier, so instead I went over to have a look there. I am so glad I did, because instantly I could see another minimalistic shot in the fog. The tide was ebbing out and the fog was lifting however, so I needed to be quick to keep it as uncluttered as possible. I needn’t have stressed too much however, the shots again were pretty easy, and worked out lovely! This location was a real gift today!

Since the fog was lifting here, I walked back around the grounds of the castle just to double check, taking a reference photo of that from the back on my phone, and then I popped River back in camper while I quickly took a snap of a sculpture I had seen and liked in the town. Again the clutter behind didn’t really give me a nice photo that I liked, but its a nice memory shot that reminds me of the morning.

With Port Glasgow complete for now, and the fog lifting enough to reveal a blue sky, I decided to go from here to find Greenock cut. There should be a waterfall from an aqueduct here, and from photos online it looked amazing! Not unlike Calder Falls, in that it was high, straight and man made, only for me, today, it was completely non existent – worse than Calder, not a drop fell!! Randomly, as I walked around the site I spotted a small, more natural looking waterfall to the back, and down a steep hill. It looked quite pretty so I climbed down the hill and tried a shot of that instead. It was near impossible to get much closer due to a steep drop from here, and I was a little disappointed at the plant growth cluttering the view from here, but it was still really pleasant. River and I just sat in the sun enjoying the peace for a little while before we left to look for something else. I imagine, if there’s water enough for the aqueduct falls to look nice, this one must look huge!

I’ve no idea what this waterfall might be named (if it has one), but it gave me a shot at this location when the main feature was dry.

Now, here is where I totally deviated off the photographic plan, and decided that I might try and find something totally personal for myself, and not for the pictures. We were so close to a location I had wondered about for so many years, it seemed today would be the perfect time for me to go on a history hunt. The weather was good, clear, and comfortable, and I had my research with me just in case I wanted to brave this.

Lets give you a little backstory here. For many, MANY years I have been researching my family tree. On my grandmothers side, a line leads to this area with my great great Grandfather, Alexander Beith. He was born in Greenock in 1838. His father, John was born in 1805, and his father James in 1759. Both of those men were baptised in Inverkip but their home address was listed as being in a random, unknown place called Ferry de Keith (1805) or Back ‘o’ the World for the preceding years. (what a fabulous place name right?!!) Looking further back, the Beith family have been here since at least 1705, and James’ mother Janet Shearer was also born here in 1731, so this was home to at least a couple of families back then, if not more. Now this place has long since gone and isn’t on any map today. I had never found it despite years of trying. Before this trip however, I decided to really put the internet to the test, and after hours of searching eventually came across 2 old maps that listed ‘Ferret de Keith’, and ‘Back ‘o’ the World’ in a really remote spot near here. It was very unclear exactly where, so I tried to match the maps with google maps, and after several attempts thought I found the correct river and hill markings. I changed the google view from terrain to satellite, and, as I zoomed in, my breath caught. There, indeed, seemed to be an image of the footings of an old ruin of a farmstead, right here! I couldn’t believe it, over 36 years of searching, and here it finally was. I checked the maps again, and again, and this definitely was the place. Well I couldn’t miss checking in person since I was here, right?

little structure visible on google maps right where old maps suggest Back ‘o’ the World might have been

I knew this was going to be a tricky one, since I have never gone off piste as such quite like this before, and I had no idea what to expect. With the complete unknown before me, I left River and my camera gear in the camper, and hiked off into the wilds of the Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park, travelling as light as I could. Phone, small packed lunch, water and a light jacket in case of rain.

Having never done this before, I immediately saw there was no path there, (well its not exactly a tourist location lets be fair!) So to start I simply walked the burn. The water levels were so low it was a massive help here. I then found myself following sheep tracks, wading through ferns and tall grass, criss-crossing the burn and low hills. At one point I spotted a sheep trapped in fencing. It was a horrible sight as the poor thing had gotten his horns stuck and there was no way he would ever be able to retract his head through the wire. He’d been here a while struggling too, since the whole square of the fencing was layered up with wool from his neck. I had to help. He panicked even more as I approached, so I covered his face with my jacket, and proceeded to manipulate his head and horns through the square as best as I could. It wasn’t easy, but he kept fairly calm for me, and once I managed it, he shot off away from me, the fence, and the site of his impending doom, running straight down to the river for a desperately needed drink.

I then carried on my way, following more sheep tracks. I waded through more grass and mossy growths, climbed up a steep hill, followed a fence line, gingerly walked across a wooden fence/bridge thing, and saw a dead sheep behind a fence blocking a hidden narrow, but steep, drop to a small burn (that sight made me sad) I hiked another steep hill, climbed over a fence, and walked on and on towards my ancestral home. After a while of this, I finally saw the remains of a stone building. This immediately choked me right up, so I double checked on Google to be sure – and yes – the location pointer had me right on top of the site. I had found it. 36 years of searching, and here it finally was.

first view of the Derelict farmstead that may have been home to my ancestors

I stood for a while, imagining the farming life here some 250 years ago. It might have been tough, but it actually had pretty much everything here to farm successfully. I had a really good look around, spotting not just this ruin, but a curved wall linked to it and hints at other buildings. I sent messages and photos to the children, showing them that this was where their ancestors had lived and worked for at least 4 generations in the 1700’s and early 1800’s, and sat to eat my lunch. I really took in as much of the site as I could, honouring the memories of those people who called this place home. It had been such an adventure getting here, I really didn’t want to leave!

I finally had to say farewell however, and contemplated the long trek back. Opposite the river from here, was a steep hill, a tree plantation and (according to google) a road. It looked tricky, but it was much more direct than the hike I had just struggled through. I decided to give this a try (belated apologies to any landowner if I trespassed by the way!!) I simply hiked straight across from here and tried what I could. Down a steep hill, slipping and sliding as I went, across the river, over a fence, up a steep hill, through a tricky boggy bit in the tree farm, over a rocky crag, fallen and dead tree stumps, more bog and suddenly, I hit the road. It was far from easy, but much quicker, and all I needed to do from here was to follow the road a few miles back to the van. As I walked back to Fred, shaking spiders and grass seeds from my jacket all the way, I found myself with a really big satisfied smile on my face. This had been such an emotional adventure, I was pretty much on a high all the way, despite my exhaustion.

The clouds had begun to roll in by this time, but I didn’t have any great plans for the rest of the day other than a gentle park and view location. This was going to be the Lyle hill view point overlooking Gourock bay, and I hoped for a sunset shot here. As the clouds thickened it gave me some nice moody shots but when it didn’t look like anything else was going to happen, I simply settled for the evening and made myself some dinner. No sunset perhaps, but I had gotten some nice moody shots, that was something, and there was always tomorrow morning. However, as I was eating I spotted a red afterglow in a small section of the sky and jumped out to grab that as well. I’d missed the best of it I realised, but it had coloured a little bit of the sky. I came came back to the van and half hour later had to jump back out again a third time! As blue hour had set in I noticed there was colour hitting a much greater area of the underside of the clouds, and that, teamed with all the town lights that were now on, made the scene look quite stunning!

The red in the sky lasted an eternity, but once it got totally dark, I settled back down for the night and hoped the dawn would be as promising as it hinted. Its a curious thing that sometimes the colour of the sunset lasts mere minutes, and other times it seems to linger on well into darkness. I wonder why that is…

Barr Castle, and Barcraigs Reservoir

South West Scotland 2021: Part Eleven

14 September 2021

Today I went to find Barr Castle. Now, I wont lie, it’s not exactly an inspiring castle by a long shot, but I had seen some nice reflection shots of this one, so I had added it to my county list as a possible plan b location. Since I was sitting nearby in the rain, it seemed only sensible that I should at least go and have a look. As I left the camper with River I couldn’t miss the fact that she was limping. I checked her paw and saw it look a little raw after yesterday’s walk, so I left her in Fred to rest up. I think long walks on tarmaced paths don’t do her paws any good, since I remember something similar happening on my highland trip a year earlier. I must bear this in mind for future. River didn’t object to being left, so I headed off, in the drizzly rain, on this one alone.

The walk was easier than I thought, being flat and much closer than I expected, although as I got near I realised that access to the castle itself wasn’t anywhere near as easy. Since I had seen so many photos I assumed that there should be an entry to this one, but couldn’t find it from this path. Frustrated I ended up doing the naughty thing and climbing over the low fence here and walking up the short hill trying to see if I could find a proper way in. On walking all the way to the front, I realised that the photos I had seen online had likely been taken from the road itself! (although, where on earth did the photographers park?!) I tried as best as I could, but just about every photo was drab in the grey weather so it felt like a struggle to get a nice shot.. and with a pond full of muck, getting a reflection was even worse.

Barr Castle looking pretty drab and grim in the miserable weather

Instead, I tried a shot through a fallen tree, various framing ideas to isolate the castle, all different spots around the pond, but nothing really worked to bring this location to life for me today. I think the cluttered pond really put me off and eventually I just gave up. This needed something that I wasn’t getting today. As I went to leave I spotted an awesome tree growing with a big hole in it. How its managed to survive such an intrusion in its trunk, I have no idea, but the whole tree looked very healthy (see header), I also spotted some amazing mushrooms growing on the floor. They were seriously impressive and HUGE!! I’d never seen anything quite like this one before, and couldn’t just leave without taking a photo to remember it with. Looking at it closely, I found it quite beautiful.

Some serious mushroom growth going on here!

On the way back to Fred I had a think on what I could do today. Ideally, I wanted to redo the temple if there was a sunset, so to bide time, I went back to Barcraigs reservoir to recheck that out. Since it had been a fail the night I tried to park up there, I thought that, if nothing else, it would be a good time to recce the site. In the daylight I found a nice parking spot and took some shots from the window of the van. There was no real need to get any closer, I could tell, since the water level was so low, and the water that WAS there was being heavily distorted in the breeze. I loved some red plants I could see, but beyond this, there was nothing to leave the van for. I sat and contemplated my options instead and checked the weather for tonight. The chances of a nice sunset had dropped considerably. Giving up on a shot here then, I thought that I would just check out a possible parking spot that was closer to the temple for another time, and then maybe move back onto Inverclyde to try the county again.

I drove around the roads near to the Temple and found a spot that was much closer. Marking it on my map, I then started towards, I thought, the M8, only I accidentally made a wrong turn and ended up at Barcraigs reservoir again. Amazingly, this time round, I could instantly see that the water was as still as glass! I re parked up at the spot I’d found before, grabbed the camera and hotfooted it to the waters edge hoping to get there before the next breeze started up. This time the image looked quite a bit nicer, although I am sure with a higher water level and an interesting sky/snow element, this image would be really quite beautiful. I was just glad to get it as it was today! The reflection shot I had been hoping for for the last two days, not of a castle, but this little house (or fishing lodge?) will do me just as well thanks!

Barcraigs Reservoir. The water levels were very low sadly, but a lucky accident found me here a second time, just as the water had stilled.

I didn’t have any set plans for tonight, so found a little spot to park up that would offer views of Dumbarton Castle from across the Firth of Clyde. I drove over and checked that out, finding it pretty easily, although the tide was out so the scene was very messy and drab. It was still fairly early however, so I phoned round a couple of places looking for a gas bottle refill, and found one not too far away at the James Watt Dock Marina in Greenock. This was just a few minutes drive further on, so I headed over there quickly before they closed. The lady there was super helpful, and a little bit of a saviour as I was one bottle down, with my second desperately low. There had been a shortage of gas bottles over the last few months, and I haven’t been able to get a refill, so my relief was quite intense. As I stepped outside, I noticed just how still the water was in the marina. These places don’t usually excite me, but something about this scene encouraged me to reach for the camera and grab some shots.

James Watt Dock Marina. This sight really caught my eye.

With the gas problem sorted, I drove back to my parking spot for the evening, and plotted a few locations to consider over the next couple of days. After I’d had had something to eat I stepped out as the light began to fade, in the vain hope the river might be still as it was nearing high tide. It wasn’t and the breeze was quite consistent here, but the view across to Dumbarton castle was still quite nice so I just took a picture of the sight as it was anyway, hoping to check again in the morning. You never know right?

Dumbarton Castle from across the River Clyde

As I settled for the evening, I noticed a motorhome pull up for the night, and several cars that pulled in, waited ten or fifteen minutes before disappearing off again. I came to realise this was an area for taxi drivers to wait at until a call came in. This quietened by midnight and I found myself sleeping really well.

Kenmure Hill Temple, Castle Semple Collegiate Church, Calder Mill…

South West Scotland 2021: Part Ten

13 September 2021

Having driven until late and stopping in the dead of night, the parking I managed to find at Castle Semple was a complete unknown to me before I woke up. When I eventually rose and looked out of the window, I found myself beside a loch, with another van parked up a couple of spaces to my right. Loads of ducks, geese and swans gathered noisily by the waters edge and vehicles were arriving with both dog walkers and parents dropping off older children for what was apparently going to be a water sports day. This area looked like it was going to be pretty interesting!

Today I hoped to capture a picture of Kenmure ‘castle’, only on further investigation, there was no castle as such, just a small tower (mislabelled on the Web, although corrected today). This was actually called Kenmure Hill Temple, and although built in late 1700’s, no one seems to know its actual purpose. It may have been an actual temple, a folly or a hunting lodge for the gamekeeper to keep watch over the white deer they had here at the time. However it’s also been suggested that it might have been a nursery for sick children, or a ladies room for taking tea and enjoying the view. Basically, with so many suggestions bouncing around, it could have been pretty much anything, or a place used over time for a variety of uses. Who knows eh?! These days its an empty ruin/folly for tourists and photographers like me to hike to instead so I’m not complaining!

River and I took the long walk to it, with River stopping, as she always does, at every puddle for a mud bath. When we approached the last bit of the hill, the sun beamed down on it, and really picked the tower out on the lonely landscape. I grabbed a couple of shots from where I stood (see header), then continued up the hill, finally stopping at the top for lunch – without re checking the sky. When I was nearly finished, I suddenly noticed the looming cloud about to engulf the sun. I quickly grabbed my camera and managed one shot of the temple in sunlight before it dimmed and the view went flat (Gagh!!! Why did I eat first?!!) Fortunately it looked like it might be temporary as I saw a big patch of blue behind and to the side of me, so I decided to just wait it out, hoping…. Sadly, the blue came 3 quarters of the way to the sun’s position, then changed direction, the cloud winning out and growing instead. Clearly there would be no more pretty light today. I explored the top nonetheless, and had a good look around the structure both inside and out, noting a probable fireplace up on what seemed to be a first floor area. It was quite intriguing, and blessed with a wonderful view regardless of what the weather decided to do.

Kenmure Hill Temple, no one seems to really know what it was built for.

As I came back to my camera bag I spotted River rolling around in, and thoroughly enjoying, a huge fresh cow pat next to me… She was covered! I yelled at her to stop, and with a happy grin she came back to me, tail wagging – but I could smell her well before she got close. This wasn’t good, and it was clear that this young lady was definitely going to need a wash down!

After it was clear the cloud was building and not receding, I decided on a different route back, this one via the old church that gives the name of the area here, Castle Semple Collegiate church. The church was interesting to visit, although I found it hard to photograph. Part of its curiosity was not simply that it was a derelict building, but that it has gravestones INSIDE the nave. The outside was a small grassy area, without any further tombstones, and sadly, to one end, I found barriers around parts of the building due to dangerous masonry in the windows. The church was founded in 1504, but beyond this fact, there is very little information available on it. I have no idea when it fell out of use. The roof was apparently removed sometime in the 1800’s so I assume it was well before that. I didn’t get my main camera out where I failed to see any pleasant viewpoints, but I did snap a few images on my phone just for memories sake. River and I went back to the main path, and continued the walk back to the visitor centre.

I have no idea what caught her attention, but on the route River kept diving nose first into several gaps/holes in the tall grass. A dog came past and for the first time she didn’t seem worried by it where she was so absorbed in whatever she was sniffing here. Instead she dived nose first into yet another leafy area. I called her over to tell her what a good girl she had been for not barking, and she came back straight away, with a leaf over one eye. She didn’t even seem to notice it as she looked up at me with the happiest expression. I laughed, took some photos, and we eventually moved on. When we got back to the lochs edge, I gave her as best a rinse as I could, but she turned green with the staining from the cow pat. I wasn’t altogether sure this was an improvement at all, and when other people walked passed, I had no option but to smile apologetically about my stinky green dog.

Covered in cow poo, muddy puddle debris and now a leaf – Happy River!

I decided that as we were here, I would check out the waterfall nearby. I wasn’t full of high hopes given the low water situation during this trip so far however. On the other hand, it did occur to me that as I had a bar of 100% natural ingredient shampoo soap in the van, maybe the running river water might help wash my stinky dog a little better. Even though I wasn’t expecting too much, when I turned up at the fall, I was SOOO disappointed!! This was as much a dribble as Blairskaith had been, and although I tried to take a few photos, it was really quite pathetic. I KNOW it can look so much better, so I decided that I would mark this waterfall as one to come back to. I sat instead at the waters edge, and gave River a proper wash. She was most disgruntled that all that ‘lovely scent’ she had worked so hard to get into her coat, was now gone, but there was no way I was going to let her anywhere near the van smelling the way she did!!

Looking pretty pathetic today, Calder Mill Waterfall

Finished here for now, we then left to have a little drive past nearby Barr Castle to see if there was any parking to explore here. There was none, so disappointed, I continued driving round to the other side of the Loch to see if it was a possible reflection location. Nope. There wasn’t a good reflection view either. This left me a little frustrated and disappointed so I continued round to the RSPB bird place at Lochwinnoch, parked up and went for a short walk to try a bit of bird watching instead. My app told me there were a large number of birds here.. But could I see any?!! Clearly I was too inexperienced at this so I gave up and went back to Castle Semple. Interestingly, the loop I had driven took me through a small town by the name of Beith. This was my grandmothers maiden name, and through her is my blood link to Scotland. I regret not pulling over and having a look here, although the family, as far as I am aware, came from Ayrshire rather than here. It might have been interesting to see the town though.

As soon as I pulled up back at the car park, it started raining and it didn’t stop all night. Looking at the map as I waited, I could see there was a walking route to Barr Castle from here. Maybe I could do this one tomorrow. For now, I could do little but settle for the evening listening to the rain pattering on the roof. It was such a relaxing sound, sleep came easily.

UPDATE. I did indeed return to this location after attending Emily’s Graduation in December and boy, oh boy, was this now worth it, and MUCH more what I had originally hoped for! I was able to find the park up quickly, and the walk to the falls told me straight away that there was a major difference here. I could hear the thunder clearly from the road, well before I descended down through the trees to the waters edge. When I arrived I was greeted with the awesome sight of water crashing over the edge to the rocks below and and flowing away with an incredibly strong current. No way was I able to stand anywhere near where I had washed River just a couple of months earlier! What an amazing revisit, and so worth retrying. I was over the moon capturing the fall this time!

What a difference some rain makes! Calder Mill Waterfall in the December

Whitelee Wind Farm, Balgray Reservoir, Woulkmill Glen, Littleton and…

South West Scotland 2021: Part Nine

12 September 2021

Today was so still that none of the wind pumps were working… and after the two nights seeing and hearing them moving constantly, it was really, REALLY eerie! As I got ready to leave Whitelee, I had every intention of making a second trip back here one day. There was so much potential here, it was so interesting, and so incredibly peaceful.

It ended as being a very reluctant departure, but eventually I did, and I started the day by going to Balgray Reservoir. As I approached the reservoir I was met by a gorgeous, pure glass like reflection when I drove past. Perfect!! This got me really excited. Unfortunately, I struggled to find a parking spot here, since the few provided were already taken. I ended driving up and down the road several times before finding a singular spot just big enough for Fred – much further down the road, but at least I did find somewhere eventually.

River and I walked all the way back up to the pumping house on the reservoir where I hoped to take some photos, but I could immediately tell I had missed the optimum moment. The breeze was just beginning to pick up, and the reflection started to disappear in small bursts – in hindsight I wished I had come here a little earlier than I had. With the sky back to cloud cover, I hadn’t felt the need to rush out though. Silly girl!! Note to self… early mornings aren’t just for sunrise – they are also really good for still water and parking spots! River and I walked around the reservoir anyway – well I was here right?! I tried to take pictures from both sides of the pumping house. Although the dream reflection was now gone, I managed a fairly decent moody shot here, using a 5 second long exposure to still the water enough. It was almost perfect. Almost. Maybe a bit of light on the pumping house, with perfectly still water? Maybe a little light mist to soften the background and separate it better? Maybe even some… yes, yes… I know, there’s always something else we would like to make any photo ‘the dream one’ right??

Balgray Pumping House, not quite as glassy a reflection as 10 minutes earlier, but a nice moody shot anyway..

We walked back to the road, crossed and then headed to the other reservoirs in this area. Right at the start of the walk there was a really pretty waterfall on Brock Burn, and it had enough water in it to actually bother shooting – Woo hoo! Little did I realise how lucky I was with this one! River kept barking at all the other dogs that came past though, so I started getting really irritated with her. I tried what I could, but with her being so annoying, I ended up abandoning the spot to get her moving and focussed on varying views and scents rather than any other doogies coming into ‘our’ space.

Waterfall on Brock Burn, at the start of the Ryat Linn reservoir walk

As we walked around I found some other spots that looked quite nice, although the light was really naff in them all. The join between Ryat Linn and Woulkmill Glen Reservoirs was supposed to have a spillway waterfall, but the water levels were very low and there wasn’t even a dribble today. Rivers angst was not easing up, and I found my frustrations really getting the better of me with every dog she went for. I struggled to focus and enjoy myself, and found myself wandering aimlessly between the rest of Woulkmill Glen, and Littleton Reservoirs. With the light being so poor I found my mood really dropping big time. I kept trying anyway, since these would be memory photos if nothing else. Because the light so flat, I even tried attempting some hand held photos of some bees, and gorgeous butterflies that were enjoying the flowers here. Handheld was clearly a terrible idea too, as every photo was awful, which just frustrated me all the more on top of everything else. My mobile did a far superior job! (see header) Eventually, everything seemed to get the better of me. Today felt like one of those ‘nothing is working!’ days, and frustration just built to a peak. Even though in theory this spot had some lovely opportunities that could have opened up to me, I really struggled to find them.

We left when I couldn’t cope any more, and as I got to Fred I realised that part of my problem was where I hadn’t eaten anything yet. I was obviously very tired because my inner fuel level was just far too low! So I made myself a ham, cheese and onion toastie in my Ridgemonkey, and soaked each side in egg. Yum! I felt much better after that. As I ate, I looked at map to see where my last location for East Renfrew was – Harelaw Dam. Looking at the location I felt very uninspired due to today’s visit being much the same subject, so I scoured the map that Google was showing me, to see what else might be in the area instead. In doing so, I spotted an iron age hill Fort that looked far more interesting. It looked to be near some water too so I felt there might be some possibilities here and drove to that location instead.

River and I at the trig point on the top of Duncarnock Fort

As it goes, it was a much better choice, I managed both reflection and viewpoint shots here. The short but steep hike up the hill that the fort originally stood on, was enjoyable enough in itself, and made for a really pleasant last visit in this area. It completely lifted my spirits above the grumpy morning that I had experienced. The view was really gorgeous, and although I could see sunshine dancing across the hills in the distance, they never came any closer towards my position. It seems this area was just destined for grey flat light for the day but I counted my blessings that at least I didn’t get rained on! When we descended, River and I were accosted by a small herd of cows. They were only curious about us, and not at all aggressive, but them all coming at us at once was a little nerve-racking, before they then wandered off to the waters edge. A short walk further and I found and fell in love with some very small gnarly red berried trees, that stood at the bottom. I am not well informed about trees, but these were really gorgeous, so I took a small leaf and berry sample to identify them later on. I found out they were Hawthorn trees, and considered one might make a lovely feature in my garden back home…

As we were edging to later in the day, I hoped for a sunset reflection shot here, but it didn’t really happen. The dappled grey cloud cover was just that little bit too heavy, going a soft peachy pink on the edges of the clouds instead. It was still quite pretty. On top of this a bunch of swans keep swimming across my reflection, rippling up the water forcing me to wait longer. I swear they were doing it on purpose in the end! I waited for ages trying different shots with the water as still as possible, and praying for something before the sky lost its colour. In the end I managed to capture one image that will at least work as a good record to remind me of future possibilities.

Duncarnock Hill Fort. Thank you Google for helping me find this spot!

After that I decided East Renfrew was done, so headed for the Barr reservoir in West Renfrew ready for the early morning shot I hoped for there. I arrived in the dark, but as far as I could tell, there was no parking anywhere nearby, except for members of the fishing club, that I guess, owned the land. So I drove on to Castle Semple, my next location on the West Renfrewshire list, arriving in the pitch black, very tired and very relieved to have somewhere to stop!

Sleep this night came swiftly and easily!

Whitelee Wind Farm and Lochgoin Monument

South West Scotland 2021: Part Eight

11 September 2021

Wind farm day… Only when I woke up early hoping for the sunrise shot I dreamed of, the cloud was SO thick you couldn’t see out of the window!!

I went back to sleep.

I eventually woke up to rain a couple of hours later. With the view still quite restricted, I simply took things easy and waited the weather out. The predictions were looking a little more promising as the day went so on I felt there was no rush today. The cloud lifted a little eventually, and it made for some nice shots from the camper window… Was that cheating?

Grim view from the window as the last downpour finally headed off

Eventually the rain stopped down to a light drizzle, and the clouds were above the turbines, so I decided to go on a long walk with River to gauge some nice moody compositional spots. I headed in the opposite direction to yesterday, walking past turbines 40, 24, 9, 8, 78 and down towards the Lochgoin Monument (see yesterdays map). This monument commemorates John Howie the author of The Scots Worthies, a book from 1775 that documented notable Covenanters and ministers. (Covenanters were a group of people in Scotland who had signed a petition against the interference of the Stuart kings in the Presbyterian church affairs, back in 1638. What followed was over 50 years of horrific persecution, violence, torture and murder)

I took some photos there, but I was sure that I could get nicer pictures in better weather and/or light. For now however, at least this documented my visit. After I had taken photos from a few different positions I realised that this exact spot was no longer in East Renfrew, but actually in East Ayrshire instead. This meant that, after all that walking, I couldn’t mark this spot off the East Renfrew leg of my county challenge … Oh well. One in advance…

As I took the pictures, I noticed a couple of breaks in the clouds, dancing small pockets of light across the Eaglesham Moor. While the light danced, it hit the occasional turbine. This looked SO pretty that I hoped to maybe capture one lit up against the grim grey sky as I turned to continue my walk around. For now, the walk ahead had no breaks in the cloud, so I aimed instead to get to a good viewpoint as soon as I could.

I started towards the Lochgoin Reservoir, only to realise several minutes later, that I was heading down to the farm by mistake. I walked back as quickly as I could and continued the hike round past the water and towards a marked lookout spot near turbine 43. My destination was Blackwood Hill.

I confess to feeling a little tired by the time I got there, and realised that it was pretty close to where I had ended at last night. Here River and I finally stopped for a good long sit down, some fluids and a lunchtime snack. It was a wonderful position. I could see for miles, and the distant hills and towns were bathed in glorious sunshine. Above us, the heavy skies remained. I saw more and more patches of sunlight come across the fields right over to me now however, so I positioned myself looking at a group of turbines, hoping that 3 of them might catch the light at once. I took loads of pictures of them all individually catching the sun, but for one patch to hit my complete grouping in one go, proved annoyingly elusive – then suddenly, after what seemed an age of trying and waiting – it happened!! I was over the moon, but realising the composition wasn’t quite right, tried to re adjust the shot. I was too slow though – the light had already gone off two of them. I waited, but it didn’t happen again, so I re-evaluated the shot I had captured and decided that I might be able to crop it to help it work better.

Light breaking through to hit some of the turbines

After this I wandered back and as I did, I spotted the Lochgoin monument in the far distance. I realised that from near where I stood, it would be perfectly positioned to sit in the middle of the silhouette of Ailsa Crag even further away, so I walked a few paces over to my left get the best view. I put my long lens on, zoomed to the max, and rattled off a few shots, moving an inch this way, half a foot that way until the position was perfect. The image on the back of the camera was really pleasing to my eye. I chuckled to myself…was this technically a 3 in one county shot? I was standing in East Renfrew, shooting the monument in East Ayrshire, against Ailsa Crag that was in South Ayrshire. How do I mark this one off?! Satisfied I’d gotten the best shot that I could, we finally headed back to the camper for a much needed rest. I’d ponder that question later if I really needed to.

As the hours passed, the heavy clouds cleared quickly so I made the call to head back out for either a clear sky sunset shot, or even a colourful one if I was lucky. Either one would do! River was exhausted (well we had just done 6.5 miles) so I left her behind to rest up while I trotted back to the spots I wanted to try for sunset…

As I walked, I spotted a lone tree on the horizon some distance away. With a lovely evening light bathing it, the blue of the sky behind, and a pink tinge to the cloud above, it looked lovely to my eye, so I hastily set up and tried to take a few photos. I needed to zoom in to the max, but even with an extender trying to help, it still looked small in the frame. (see Header) I felt it was still worth stopping for though, even if it did cut the time to sunset considerably closer than I was comfortable with.

Since I hadn’t picked a nice spot yet – and I only had a rough idea at that – I quickly headed on my way but soon found myself stopping a second time. This time it was to photograph the sun dipping below the hill, with a delightful starburst in the making. This spot proved rushing any further would be a waste of time, since I now realised I was in the wrong place to actually see the sun dip below the horizon itself. As I positioned myself for this shot, I saw the one I would have loved to have taken… but sadly the water level in the reservoir was far too low. I think that maybe a reflection in the water would make a strong image and that this would be much better after a period of rainfall. For now, I concentrated on trying to get the best angle for the sunburst.

Once I’d managed this one, I saw that I still had 5 mins to the actual sunset. I suspected it might be worth re-trying the monument shot I’d taken earlier, but I realised chances were going to be slim once I spotted that the sun was now behind a cloud. Any colour there a few minutes ago was already fading to a dull blue and quickly at that. I tried the shot however – gotta be in it, to win it, right?! Unfortunately the lens extender (which slightly restricts the amount of light that can get to the shutter) and the rapidly fading daylight, made it very hard to focus. Eventually I had to admit to myself, that I wasn’t going to get this one. Maybe I could just cheat the earlier shot, and put the colour that I was now looking at, into the image when I edited it…

Matching the bit of colour I saw in the sky later on, this was taken earlier in the day.

I walked back towards the wind turbine I had photographed and used my phone to take a quick snap of the severely depleted reservoir. This was to remind me that when full, it might be worth coming back to try a good reflection shot. Finally, completely exhausted, I plodded back to the camper for a well earned rest tonight!

Pollok Country Park, Linn Falls and Whitelee Wind Farm

South West Scotland 2021: Part Seven

10 September 2021

After a good nights rest, a reset, and a gentle morning, I left Emily at mid day with a clearer plan of action.

I was hoping to finish Glasgow, but rather than take shots of the city proper, I turned to two country parks just on the city outskirts – still technically in the Glasgow City ‘county’ so these can be counted as valid locations in my county challenge! My first port of call was Pollok country park, recommended by Emily’s flatmate. Parking was easy to find, and free, so I got there quickly, and walked towards the river, gauging a couple of extra shots as I walked along. It was as lovely as I hoped here. The most surprising discovery of all though, was the fact that THIS was the exact spot that I had actually tried to find two days ago!! The river I followed along here was White Cart Water (this river was clearly longer than I checked!), and the spot I had seen in the photo was the weir and old saw mill along the river right here! Clearly the original photo I used for reference had been slightly mislabelled as Renfrew when it wasn’t, or the poster thought that this spot was within the Renfrew boarder. Either way, I was overjoyed, and took no time at all setting up and taking multiple images of this beautiful location. It was still very cloudy, but it didn’t rain so I was really happy. I am determined to come back here at some point, and capture this image in prettier weather. I bet it will look really lovely with a bit of sun to bring this scene alive!

The old Sawmill by White Cart Water at Pollok country park

River entertained herself around me, and decided to rub herself in … muuuddd???. It could have been anything actually, so I didn’t take any chances and took her down to the water to wash it all back off again (much to her annoyance – she’d worked hard at getting that all in there!!) As I did this, I saw a chap taking photos of some bottles with the weir as a backdrop. I had a brief chat with him, and he explained that he was trying to take some advertising shots with his mobile. I asked how they were coming out and he said he was just an amateur and that the photographer he had hired couldn’t do it until October, adding softly ‘are you interested?’ Now, somehow I missed this question, only hearing it later, but I continued the chat, mentioning that I had seen shots like these before, that I bet the box was heavy, and further random conversations. It was only when I walked away a few minutes later, that I heard the question and I wondered if he had been serious, and whether I had missed a chance to earn a few pennies, and try my hand at still life and promo photography. Ahh, when you hear things back in your head after the event right?!

I went on my way, stopping to photograph the weir and old buildings from under the bridge (see header) then looked at Pollok House from the path. It was closed for the day due to Covid restrictions, but the view from here was really nice and super symmetrical which appealed to my sense of order… well apart from the gate being slightly oddly opened. I darted up the steps and evened the opening out before running back down to grab a quick shot with my phone. The lands here were the family seat of the Stirling-Maxwell family, and they lived here for 700 years in various castles before this house was built in 1752 (with a few extensions since then) In 1931 it was here that the first discussions were had to form a new National Trust for Scotland with the then owner, Sir John Stirling Maxwell 10th Baron of Pollok. He died in 1957, and the property was handed to the City of Glasgow by his daughter Dame Anne Maxwell MacDonald in 1966, and then to the National Trust for Scotland to care for in 1998. The family have retained the rights to still reside in parts of the house when they visit Glasgow, which I was really pleased to hear -it means that its still a living residence for this long line of lords and barons.

Satisfied with what I could get with my limited light for now, I marked Pollok Park as one to come back to at another time of the year or when I am next up here, and I then left and went to Linn Park, not terribly far from here. This was recommended by Emily herself, ‘its gorgeous there Mum, we went last summer, and you’ll love the waterfall…’ I duly listed this, and headed over with some hope that perhaps this waterfall might be as impressive as she suggested… but no, the water here was a fraction of the flow as I had secretly assumed. I sent her a jokey text with a photo, asking if there was more water when she was here (knowing full well there was) and she replied with a shocked face at seeing the levels. I wasn’t put off however. I did what I could, and actually really liked just focusing on one part only. The water that was falling here, had gathered to one side and formed a smaller section of falls that was in its own right, still fairly pretty. I really enjoyed this shoot. The low river levels allowed me to step a little further out into the water so I could get a better view. Photos online I have seen since, suggest that this isn.t normally possible! Once this was done, I was pleased to be able to mark yet another county off my list.

From here I decided to go to East Renfrew. I wasn’t sure about doing another park, a waterfall, nor long walk, so decided to go to Whitelee wind farm instead. This was going to be an unusual one to do, and I was very uncertain as to what I could expect here – but as the prediction was for 24% cloud at sunset, I considered that maybe a turbine silhouetted and reflected in some water would look nice…? That was the thinking anyway. I arrived, saw a few spots to park up and then went for a brief walk to gauge the place. I totally surprised myself by really enjoying it here. It truly was far more fascinating than I was banking on. Where I was expecting a bit of an eyesore location, with some interesting/different features to possibly photograph, I found myself in a very well thought out location, designed to be practical, preserving of nature, AND a pleasant place to spend some time walking or learning about these rather awesome structures. This place genuinely had it all worked out really well! I only did a short walk to begin with, just to gauge the lay of the land… wandering around past turbines 40, 41, 54, 55 and around to turbine 43 (see map below) I spotted a possible sunset spot, and headed back to the van for some supper to wait the cloud’s departure before I aimed to go out a little later.

map of part of the huge Whitelee Wind Farm

The sky however, hadn’t read the same forecast as me, and I watched as the cloud got heavier and heavier until it was clear there wasn’t going to be any sunset, and that instead heavy mizzle would be the order for tonight! I moved the van to a safer spot, after seeing another motorhome move, and spotting a sign mentioning gates being locked. With miserable weather here now, I decided that I would stop for the night , and have a full and proper look at this site tomorrow… this was WAY more interesting than I initially expected it to be, and you never know, perhaps the sunset sky was slightly off by a few hours, but maybe the sun RISE would be the glorious chance I hoped for.

Dumbarton Castle, Renfrew, Cloch Lighthouse and a Deep Depression.

South West Scotland 2021: Part Six

8 & 9 September 2021

As I planned, I scouted the area the other side of Dumbarton Rock, driving over the river and parking up near a small park area, and some smallish industrial looking buildings. The view was really nice, but the low tide definitely didn’t do any favours here. I was right in thinking it was a high tide spot. Everything was how I wanted it on my return and I was pleased to see the weather was actually playing ball too – although all the local birdlife definitely wasn’t. Every time the reflection looked clear, I opened the shutter for a long exposure shot to smooth the ripples that were blowing, and it seemed that this was the cue for every bird to do a sudden swim across the scene. I won’t lie, it actually got very frustrating to see shot after shot marred by happy white streaks as they sauntered right through the otherwise perfect reflection. The tide turned and I started getting convinced that I simply wouldn’t get this shot in time before the water was too shallow again, but finally they left me alone for a few minutes and I was able to get the shot I hoped for. Actually the sight of the rocks just under the water is quite pleasant, so maybe fate was guiding me to a slightly lower than high tide shot after all….

Then I finished Dumbartonshire.

Next up was… Well I was terribly indecisive. In the end I settled on East Renfrew, since it was just below Glasgow. I could head westward after, through the top counties, then head south along the coast to capture the Ayrshire ones. On the way through, I passed a spot I had marked as a lovely waterfall, so pulled off very excited to see it. Rouken Glen is a park just on the bottom part of Glasgow, and the photos I had seen of the falls here looked awesome. Not for me today however, for me, the falls were pathetic, and to my eye, literally not worth photographing. I couldn’t even get into a good position to capture the little dribble presented to me, so less than half an hour later I was walking back to the van wondering what to do next.

One of the spots I had marked on my map, was little more than a vague hope that the location was correct. I had seen a snap someone had posted from (I think) a fishing trip, labelled simply ‘White Cart Water, East Renfrew’ but the view behind him was something I thought I would love to see for myself. Trying to find the exact location however proved to be very tricky. Following the map closely for ages, up and down this very long river, I finally found some falls near a building that looked like they might be the right place. I’d marked this spot on my My Maps route planner, and today I drove on over, really hopeful for this one instead, as it was likely to be very picturesque. I got to the spot I thought it was at, only to discover, it wasn’t. There was nothing there. A small weir, with a ton of teenagers on it, and the building was non existent – just a separate cottage not linked to the water at all.

I felt very frustrated. Maybe Fate was telling me I shouldn’t be here…

So I gave up on East Renfrew for now, and headed for a sure fire spot I was really excited to photograph, and plotted Inverclyde as my next county instead. There are several locations here I wanted to photograph, so I felt that it was going to be one of the easier counties on this trip. There was one lighthouse that I was particularly looking forward to photographing, and my greatly dampened mood was picked up as I drove on over there first. When I eventually got to it however, I was devastated to realise that there was literally nowhere to park. For such a highly photographed lighthouse, this was totally surprising to me. Where on earth do people park?!! Outside the lighthouse were a few parking spots very clearly labelled as residents only, but after a few drives up and down the road again, I felt I had absolutely no choice but to stop here for a few minutes to gather myself, and to work out what, if anything, I could do about this. I eventually had to get out to try to work out how to get down to the beach, since everything was so unclear. In the end I still couldn’t work it out, since there was no obvious tourist path down there – it seemed you had to climb down? I was so confused!! It began to feel so ridiculously impossible. With my stress levels rising, I walked up a bit instead, and found an easier climb down (still a climb though), and a possible parking spot to use… but I wasn’t overly thrilled at it. I would have to park right up on the pavement, and right to the edge of the drop to the beach to allow enough clearance for walkers to get by safely without forcing them onto the road. Not that many people walked by here I mused, there seemed to be little else around. I drove back there anyway, carefully parking up, and I went down to the very rocky beach for a quick recce. It was a very uncomfortable walk, and even River seemed reluctant to walk across the oversized stones for too far. I stomached the pain of the twisting ankles for now, as I caught sight of my quarry, Clough Lighthouse. It was just as lovely as I hoped, however, I’d forgotten to check tide times, and the water was nowhere near as close to the building as I had hoped, leaving a pretty unsightly foreground for my shots. Sunset was in about 30 minutes, so I took a picture of the glow on the lighthouse with my phone, quite hopeful that the colour might pick up and really kick off over the next half hour.

With plenty of time, I started back to pick up my main camera before I thought to check the app again for the sunset time. I felt a little suspicious that it might be sooner than 30 minutes, but the app said not… Not totally convinced, I double checked a secondary source though, and to my deepest disheartenment, saw the sun was setting NOW. I was really frustrated that the app had been wrong and hadn’t updated to match my location as it should, but more than this, that it was yet another thing going wrong today. With the roller coaster of high hopes and dashed plans on top of everything else over this week, I was at the end of my tether. Everything had been gradually chipping away at my morale and I suddenly began to feel chronically dispirited and defeated. I miserably got back to the camper, kicking myself for not bringing the camera straight out first time, and I struggled to put on my sturdier boots. It all felt totally pointless. River angrily barked at anything that moved past us. It grated where it became such a repetitive and loud noise, and she just wouldn’t stop. The traffic passed by loudly as well, shaking the van with every big vehicle that went past, and as is want by some drivers, honking horns to disturb a camper sitting quietly, happened here too. My negativity finally spiralled completely out of control and I went into a mini meltdown, struggling not to cry. Did I want to move the van? Try this tomorrow? But move to where??!! It’s getting dark, and I don’t know this area enough to know where I might stay! But I don’t want to be here! But where else would you go?!!

As I just sat for the next 40 minutes, totally unable to function, it started raining outside, and I just gave up. I hadn’t even seen the cloud roll in, I was so locked in my dark place. Sod it. Stay here, I am probably unsafe to try and move Fred anyway right now, and who knows… maybe tomorrow morning all this will all look better. I curled up into bed and gave in to the tears. It was the only thing I was physically able to do right now.

It rained all night.

9 September

Today started where yesterday left off. It was rainy, grim, and visibility was poor. I made breakfast, a cup of tea and just sat there totally unable to focus or think. I had no idea what to do. It just felt like this whole week had been a battle.

Then Emily text me asking if I could transport a large item for her today or tomorrow. I quickly checked the lighthouse, and seeing that there was definitely no shot there, I told her I would be over in an hour. I tidied everything away, making it safe for driving (nothing worse than things flying around the van when you are concentrating on the road!), and started the drive back to Glasgow. To my horror I instantly realised I had no wipers working. I really couldn’t believe this on top of everything else!! Thankfully the rain was minimal, so I drove gingerly to Greenock where I spotted a kwikfit and pulled in. I almost couldn’t believe the bad news that they didn’t do any electrical work on vehicles. Seeing my distress however, the guy at the desk very kindly directed me to a road which was full of garages that would probably be able to help. I thanked him very gratefully, wiped my screen dry and followed his directions. My luck continued as it started… The first garage there, had no electrician, and he directed me to a second – the second was too busy and directed me to a third – the third – well the third completely ignored me standing in reception. They saw me there, stood around chatting among themselves, but no-one had the common decency to speak to me or even acknowledge me. I didn’t dare open my mouth for fear of what might come out by now. I had been working myself into an ever downward spiral, so eventually just left, fuming, desperately low and close to tears yet again. The rain had temporarily stopped, so I thoroughly wiped the windows again and headed to Glasgow instead. If I could get there, maybe the AA could help!

When I got there, Emily gave me a big hug and made a warming cuppa while I called the AA. They arrived in quick time, and the chap did a really thorough check of everything. He eventually had to look at every single fuse individually when he found the wiper one to be fine. It took him a while, standing out in the drizzle, but he was good natured and very calm as he methodically worked his way through the problem, eventually finding the dead one. He changed it, and everything worked again, including a bunch of other things that I had noted weren’t working, but hadn’t really thought too much about – Wipers, blowers, cigarette lighter sockets and the reversing camera. He suggested that whoever had put the reversing camera in, had connected it to this circuit, and that perhaps it was a bit too heavy a load for the fuse. He gave me two spare 10 amp fuses so that if it went again, I would be able to drive safely home, and then I could take Fred to a garage. What a relief… I suddenly felt such a weight lifted. Had all these little things also being weighing me down as well?

I took Emily’s thing to her studio, then we went back to her flat where we had a quick bit of tea. She had to go back out again, so I sat quietly, safely, and warmly, while I backed up all my photos, charged the laptop and my phone, had a shower and just watched a bit of TV. Tonight everything felt so much better!!!

Grey Mare’s Tail Waterfall, Jaw Reservoir, Lady Linn Falls

South West Scotland 2021: Part Five

7 September 2021

Today I decided to try to find Grey Mare’s Tail waterfall, and nearby Jaw Reservoir. I had read that this one had a walking trail that would take me right passed it, so I hunted for, and found it, on the All Trails App. First instructions were for a small car park nearby, so I happily headed over to that. Frustration hit right at the start however, when I pulled up to a height barrier preventing me from parking there. I carefully turned round and drove up and down the narrow road for a bit until I found a spot on a verge just big enough for one or two vehicles. Although not the best start, I felt very lucky to have found that at least, or I suspect I would have had to abandon this walk, since I didn’t think there was anywhere else to park. The walk from here looked easy, simply following a small road, but then I missed my turn off to the right and ended up walking all the way along until I hit a private house. Just laughing at my poor luck today, I turned round and retraced my steps until I found the correct route, and from here it was easier to follow.

The walk to the Jaw Reservoir was not hard, it was a bit boggy in places and I did indeed pass the waterfall. It looked like getting down to the base of it might be a bit tricky though, since the sides looked very steep, and were largely covered in huge thick ferns. I briefly tried one open grassy bit of the hill, but gave up thinking I might retry on my return journey. Looking downstream, I thought I could see a possible route to try. River loved it though and bounded on ahead, confused when I couldn’t follow. It’s easy if you have 4 legs, obviously!

For now, I continued on up to the reservoir and when I got there, the water was very still with a light mist over the trees, giving a beautiful vibe to an area that might otherwise be just a bit flat and boring. I snapped a few photos before I took a gentle walk along the edge for a while, simply soaking up the incredible peace here.

A beautiful and calm Jaw Reservoir

With the exception of one man tidying his fishing rod away, some distance ahead, no one else was here, so this peace was very much just for me to enjoy. I ambled along the stony edge of the water until River got all caught up in some fishing wire. As I was untangling her, the fisherman came past explaining to me that it was probably lost here after the line or weight had broken. He went on to say that the water was the lowest he had seen in 30 years, and he genuinely seemed amazed at this level at the moment. As I looked closer, I could see a lot of broken bits of fishing line and where the water level might normally sit. I understood then, just why he was astounded at this – the grass line (which I assume sat just above the regular fill line) was actually quite a few feet higher than where I stood. It was hard to imagine so much extra water here, and how much it might change what I was seeing today. We chatted a while as I worked to untangle the line, and once River was freed, he went on his way. I found myself just walking the rest of the circuit around the reservoir without taking any further photographs, and only once I got back to my starting point, did I encounter anyone else.

On the way back down, I tried again to get to the bottom of the Grey Mares Tail, this time attempting the route that I had spotted earlier. Despite a huge battle through thick ferns, that had me feeling a little unnerved about what might be hiding in there (I’ve clearly been watching too many jungle movies!) this route proved to be no good after all. It stopped by a wall above the river, and had no way to get down from there. Disappointed, I retraced my steps back and then attempted a third route, a little closer to the falls. This nearly ended in disaster when River lost her footing and rolled down what evidently revealed itself to be the steep edges of a gorge! I stopped breathing for a second as she tumbled, but then her fall was broken by a tight mass of ferns and nettles. Though shocked, she was clearly unhurt, thankfully. I paused for a second to breathe again. She remained still in her shallow hammock of plants, and although I could see fear in her eyes, she trusted me totally as I then attempted to guide her back up the steep sides. As soon as she had gotten close enough, I grabbed her by the collar and gave a quick sharp hoick up the last unclimbable portion. Apologising profusely for nearly choking her, I hugged her hard and she licked me frantically as we perched where we were for a moment, not moving another step. I quickly took a handful of photos from there, which weren’t particularly good ones, and we left as soon as we could, retracing our steps back out, so as to avoid any further accidents. We were both a bit shaken but these falls, and the pictures, were not worth loosing my dog over!! I abandoned any other thoughts of further attempts at photographing this one… I think its my least favourite waterfall ever.

This was as close as we got to this without getting into any further danger

We carried on walking down feeling a huge relief to be back on an established and safe route, and River walked with a happy wag to her tail. Feeling a little fed up with this today, I looked at the map again and noticed that there appeared to be another set of falls that I hadn’t spotted before, and that no-one had written about. They even had a name – Lady Linn Falls. I debated about whether to bother, assuming that no-one had written about them because they were a bit pants, but since these looked to be close to the road and in the woods I was currently walking past, I decided to make the detour. I had been so disappointed at the Grey Mare’s Tail falls, that a chance for a second one seemed promising.

I was so very glad I did! These were really pretty, and the walk in the woods very pleasant!! River loved it, and as I worked I spotted her rolling in mud, paddling in the stream and back in the mud again until she was largely just a muddy ball. It was lovely seeing her unfazed about her fall earlier and so happy. I took photos from the top of the falls (see header), the front, and then down a step of boulders that revealed a secondary part to the fall. This spot was really gorgeous with some early autumnal leaf fall on a lush green moss covered rock. I couldn’t understand why this wasn’t mentioned anywhere.. it was WAYYY prettier than the Grey Mare’s Tail ones, and dead easy to get to!! The colours around me were stunning, and it all got helped with the occasional dash of sunlight on the scene as the sun popped out to play intermittently. Now this felt a little more like it, and I had an absolute ball here.

Dappled sunlight over the Lady Linn Falls

Once I was finished, I washed River down in the water until she was clean again, and thought that on our way back to Dumbarton, I might try and find a dog brush so I could de tangle her once she was dry again. I had forgotten to bring one, although I had brought everything else for her.

I got back to camper, drove to Dumbarton, where I found a pet store without any trouble, picked up a nice brush, and some special dog treats. Then I parked up back at my spot from the last two nights, to a nice sunny evening. I took River over to the castle and we sat in the warm sun where she was able to fully dry off. She loved the hands on attention as I gave her a thorough brush through, and complete inch by inch tick check. Going through those ferns earlier, I felt sure she would have picked up at least one of these hitch-hikers, but I found nothing on her at all. Clearly the spray I used intermittently on her, WAS doing its job, and the smell of the geranium oil and vinegar mix was not to their taste!

After an hour just chilling in the park, I took her back to camper, and decided to come back to quickly photograph the castle while there was nice light on it. Of course, as soon as I got back with the camera, the last bit of sunlight actually shining on the castle went, but it still looked nicer than it had so far in my trip, so I took a proper shot of it anyway.

Dumbarton Castle looking a little nicer with blue sky instead of grey!

I felt it was time to leave this place, although I felt very comfortable and safe being here. West Dumbartonshire had been completed for now, with The Dumpling, Jaw Reservoir, Dumbarton castle, and the two waterfalls, but before I thought of heading off, I looked to the left, and realised how I would very much like to photograph the castle from that side. Again, I hoped for high tide, so I looked at the timings. The next one would be in the middle of the night, but the one after was at 2pm tomorrow. Armed with these details I decided to stop another night and take the morning to scout the best position to shoot, before coming back to photograph it proper. Then I could head off to my next county on this trip. I wasn’t altogether sure where to go next either, but I had my list, and the best I could tell myself was that it would be the first of the counties south of the Clyde.

Dumpling and Dumbarton Castle

South West Scotland 2021: Part Four

5 & 6 September 2021

I woke up in my lovely forest parking spot quite refreshed, but I really struggled to get myself motivated. I had no idea why. I think maybe yesterday had been a bit of a blow, even though I had managed some recovery in the end.

I eventually got myself together, and made my way to the first location in my next county, West Dumbartonshire. Here I found myself at the northernmost location on my list, The Dumpling, a perfectly positioned hill that overlooked the southern end of Loch Lamond. Parking was easy, and the walk, although steep in parts, wasn’t long, and before I realised it, I was standing on top of the hill looking out at the view that was… well, very disappointing. I have seen some cracking shots from here, but today, even though the sun was shining, most of the loch was lost to a very heavy haze. I had a small lunch with me, so I waited some time, just chilling to see if it would lift, and though it did a little, after nearly two hours I gave up. I hoped I might be able to recover whatever shots I had managed to get, in the editing stage, but I don’t think they are too great. I pretty much only saved one of them – sort of – its definitely not of a quality I am happy with. Strangely, my eyes could see more than my camera at the time, which actually quite curious.

View of Loch Lamond from from The Dumpling

On way down my footing slipped on the very dry and dusty ground, and I instinctively reached out to grab something to break my fall. Without looking, my hand found a thick, very thorny bramble, and as I went down it tore through my flesh. I startled (and worried) River as I landed, yelping in pain. My hand instantly poured with blood and I had to stop to pull out a bunch of thorns and try to suppress the bleeding, before I could continue any further. This really dragged me down on top of a whole bunch of things I was already feeling. I gingerly continued down until I got back to the van, managed to clean and dress my hand properly, and made myself a calming cup of tea. I sat for some time, contemplating what to do next. I was now out of milk, and still needed anti histamine for my very itchy face, so went to find a local shop. Unfortunately, they only sold the expensive branded stuff (I won’t pay for a name if I can help it) and no skimmed milk, so I changed my plans a little and went to find a supermarket at Dumbarton instead, aiming to get some fuel at the same time.

Now I was here, I hoped to try Dumbarton Castle – only to find it closed due to Covid restrictions. This just felt so sad on top of everything else. Feeling a little sorry for myself, I settled for a wander instead, with River, my mobile phone, and no weight on my back. I took a snap of the castle from the front and then explored all around the castle rock to as far as I could walk. The last of the blue sky quickly left, turning more and more cloudy until it gradually started raining. I returned without exploring much further, loosing motivation completely for tonight, had some dinner, and just stayed put.

Mobile photo of the front and lower levels of Dumbarton Castle

I did find this castle to be an interesting location to be sitting next to however! It struck me as being a very unusual looking hill, and you could see it from quite a distance as you drove in. It was very steeply sided while there was no other hill close by, and the town of Dumbarton was laying all around the base of it. Curiosity grabbed me as I settled for the evening and I found myself looking up its history, both geological and human. Turns out it was formed by a volcano some 350 million years ago. A lava flow basically hardened in the middle of the volcano, plugging the vent, and after years of weathering, ice erosion and ground movement, the outer, softer layers of rock gradually wore themselves away, leaving just this ‘plug’ of hardened basalt rock. From Iron age times, it has been used by people as a spot for a fortification, being particularly suited to seeing enemies well before they are near, and being fairly impenetrable once they had arrived. It also housed prisoners (like William Wallace) and served to hide monarchy as they waited to flee. (Mary Queen of Scots hid here before fleeing to France) Quite a spot I think!

6 September

It rained all night and quite late into the morning. Eventually it stopped at 11ish, so I took River for a walk just to get her moving and to go to the loo if she needed it. She didn’t want to come out initially, but I made her anyway and she eventually loved it when we got going. I left the camera in the van not thinking I would see much in this miserable weather, hoping simply for an exploratory walk upstream. I had my mobile for any reference shots if I needed it. As it goes, I did end up spotting an interesting view that I hoped would work at high tide – if the water stilled long enough. (see header) I went back to the van, had lunch, and decided to leave again at around 1-ish ready for high tide at 2. River chose to stay, so I headed out alone for the picture I aimed to get. The tide was now fully in, but the water didn’t really still completely as I had hoped. I did manage to get a shot that showed the volcanic dome well though. Now I knew the history, it seemed all the more interesting to me and I really found it fascinating to try and visualise a much bigger volcano in this area.

I tried a couple of other shots of some rotted pier legs (I assumed that was what they were) but the shots didn’t really work here. It gradually started raining again and I didn’t really want to leave River alone for too long so I made my way back to Fred and chilled out for a while.

When the rain stopped, it was much later, but I decided to go out again, this time back to the front of the castle. The light wasn’t great but I hoped that when the tide was fully out I could possibly try a bit of bird spotting as there seem to be quite a few wading birds here. Unfortunately I struggled to photograph or identify any birds, because the tide had already gone so far out, they were impossible to see clearly, even with my 400mm lens! The castle was grey and dull with a heavy black cloud over it, so any pictures there were a bust too.

As I stood aimlessly looking downstream, I noticed some sun rays were trying to break through the dark cloud. They looked really pretty as they danced across the scene at the end of the river. Initially they were quite a distance away, but then I realised the cloud was actually very slowly making its way up towards my position. I watched and hoped they would come up this far for a while, before I realised I should be photographing them!! I hurriedly got the camera out, focused, and snapped a few shots, fearful the beams would fade one last time. They never did come right up to me, but just as a nice one was streaking through, I heard geese behind me. I didn’t dare turn round but kept my eye on the beam as the light strengthened. As soon as they started to dim, I thought, I would press the shutter regardless – but at the same time I prayed that the birds would get into the shot. Please hang on, please hang on, please hang on!!! I held my breath as I prayed, and then, there they were – 4 birds were flying through my frame! I pressed the shutter. Hoping and praying I had a decent shot as the screen went black, I gasped when I saw what I had captured. Those geese couldn’t have been in a more perfect position!!

The beam was just on the turn, so the timing couldn’t possibly be any better either. The shot looked great and I was over the moon! The hole in the cloud closed shortly after this, and in no time it got to a point that there was no light at all and so close to sunset that the cloud effectively presented a prematurely dark and grim night. Nonetheless…it was a happy end to the day!